Product Specifications

The performance and versatility of FEPSA felt bodies are defined by a set of carefully controlled technical specifications. By combining parameters such as shape, dimensions, weight, color, finishing, and stiffening, FEPSA ensures consistency across production while offering the flexibility required for diverse applications and custom developments.

Material Sourcing The Process Product Range Product Specifications Product Offering

Crown

FEPSA felt bodies are defined by a combination of crown shape, size, and dimensional parameters, allowing precise selection according to both design and technical requirements.

Each reference (such as A, B, C, C10 or CX) represents a distinct crown profile, influencing the final appearance, volume, and proportions of the hat.

1. Crown Shape

Crown references correspond to different geometries and heights.

Lower profiles (such as BB or A) typically result in more classic and compact shapes, while higher profiles (such as C, C10 or CX) create more pronounced and structured crowns.

2. Size (Perimeter)

Sizes (XS to XXL) are based on the perimeter measurement, which corresponds to the inner head size of the finished hat.

This ensures accurate fitting and consistency across production.

3. Dimensional Parameters

Each shape is further defined by key technical measurements:

  • Perimeter – inner circumference of the hat
  • Diameter – width of the crown
  • Height – vertical dimension of the crown
  • Overall size – total size of the felt body

4. Blocked Cone Shapes

Pre-formed cone bodies (such as Sino or Melusine shapes) are available for further transformation.

These shapes provide a versatile base for custom designs, with defined minimum and maximum size ranges to accommodate different production needs.

Technical Flexibility

The combination of shape, size, and dimensions allows for a high level of customization, supporting both standard models and bespoke developments.

Our technical team is available to assist in selecting the most suitable configuration for each design.

Brim

Different brim geometries define the final shape:

  • Flat (Capeline)
    • More classic and structured appearance
  • Flared (Flare)
    • Outward opening shape
    • More expressive and dynamic design

Technical Considerations

  • Brim performance depends on the interaction between:
    • Weight
    • Material (fur or wool)
    • Finishing
    • Stiffening level

Color

FEPSA typically works with three main color groups:

  • Black
  • Medium colors
  • Pastel / light colors

Technical Constraints

Some colors require specific handling:

  • Light and pastel colors may require more controlled processing
  • Certain formulations are restricted for specific colors
  • Special finishes may behave differently depending on color

These controls ensure color consistency and prevent visual defects.

Consistency and Quality

FEPSA applies strict control over:

  • Color uniformity
  • Repeatability across batches
  • Compatibility with finishes and stiffening

Weight

The weight of a felt body is a key parameter that influences its structure and performance. 

It is typically defined as the starting weight (in grams) and directly affects how the material behaves during shaping and finishing.

Impact on Performance

Different weight ranges correspond to different product characteristics:

  • Lower weights (80-120g)
    • Lighter and more flexible
    • Easier to shape
    • Suitable for softer constructions
  • Medium weights (120-180g)
    • Balanced flexibility and structure
    • Versatile across multiple styles
  • Higher weights (180-300g)
    • Greater density and rigidity
    • Enhanced durability and shape retention
    • Ideal for structured or western hats

Weight evolution during production

The final weight of the felt body may vary throughout the process due to:

  • Finishing operations (e.g. pouncing, velour)
  • Fiber loss during sanding
  • Dyeing and treatment processes
  • Stiffening grade, if applied

FEPSA defines target weight ranges and tolerances to ensure consistency across production batches.

Technical Control

Weight is controlled through:

  • Defined starting weight specifications
  • Process monitoring and inspection
  • Target values with acceptable tolerances

This ensures reliable performance and repeatability for industrial applications.

Customization

FEPSA offers flexibility in weight selection according to:

  • Desired stiffness and structure
  • Type of finish
  • Final application

Our technical team can support the definition of the most suitable weight range for each product.

Finishing

FEPSA felt hat bodies can be enhanced through a range of finishing processes that define the final texture, appearance, and performance of the material, with each finish interacting differently with the fiber composition to create a wide spectrum of visual and tactile effects, from natural and raw surfaces to highly refined, luxurious textures.

Types of Finishes

Un-pounced

A natural, untreated surface that preserves the original texture of the felt.

  • More rustic appearance
  • Higher fiber visibility
  • Suitable for casual or traditional styles

Pounced (1/2 Pounced & Pounced)

Mechanical sanding of the surface to create a smoother and more uniform finish.

  • Improved surface regularity
  • Balanced softness and structure
  • Widely used across different qualities

Special Pounce

An advanced finishing process that produces an exceptionally smooth and refined surface.

  • High level of softness
  • Premium touch and appearance
  • Particularly recommended for high-end qualities

Suede

A soft, matte surface with a slightly brushed texture.

  • Velvety touch
  • Elegant and understated look

Satin

A smooth and compact finish with a subtle sheen.

  • Clean and refined appearance
  • Reduced surface friction

Velour / Carded Velour

A raised fiber finish that creates a rich and soft texture.

  • Deep, plush surface
  • Enhanced visual depth

Special Velour / Melusine

A premium velour finish with longer, highly controlled fibers.

  • Luxurious appearance
  • Exceptional softness
  • High-end positioning

Finish Selection Guidelines

Not all finishes are equally suitable for every material. The compatibility between fiber composition and finishing process directly impacts the final result.

Certain qualities are more adaptable to advanced finishes such as velour or special pounce, while others perform better with simpler surface treatments.

Additionally, some finishes may vary depending on color availability and processing conditions.

Technical Considerations

The choice of finish influences:

  • Surface texture and hand feel
  • Visual appearance (matte, satin, velour)
  • Performance characteristics
  • Final product positioning (standard to premium)

Customization

FEPSA offers a high level of flexibility in finishing, allowing combinations tailored to specific design and performance requirements.

Our technical team can support the selection of the most suitable finish according to the chosen quality and intended application.

Stiffening

Stiffening is a key step in defining the structure, rigidity, and shaping behavior of the felt body.

Through the controlled application of specific stiffening agents (“goma”), FEPSA adjusts the material to meet different performance requirements, from soft and flexible to highly structured and rigid forms.

Application Areas

Stiffening can be applied to different parts of the felt body:

  • Overall – provides uniform stiffness across the entire felt body
  • Crown – defines structure and shape retention
  • Brim – controls flexibility, firmness, and final silhouette

Application methods include machine spray, immersion, or manual techniques, depending on the product and desired result.

Stiffness Levels

The degree of stiffening is carefully controlled to achieve the desired performance.

  • Low stiffness – softer hand feel, more flexibility
  • Medium stiffness – balanced structure and comfort
  • High stiffness – strong shape retention and rigidity

The level is adjusted according to factors such as material type (fur or wool), weight, and finishing.

Technical Considerations

Stiffening is influenced by multiple parameters:

  • Fiber composition (fur vs wool)
  • Color and dyeing process
  • Surface finishing (e.g. velour, suede)
  • Final application and design requirements

Certain combinations require specific formulations or restrictions to ensure optimal results and avoid visual or structural defects.

Process Control

FEPSA applies strict internal guidelines to ensure consistency and performance:

  • Defined concentration ranges depending on material and finish
  • Specific application methods (immersion, spray, manual)
  • Controlled drying and shaping sequences
  • Adjustments based on customer specifications

These controls ensure repeatability and reliability across all production batches.